WEBVTT Kind: captions; Language: en 00:00:20.001 --> 00:00:26.000 Harris, New York, Hollywood, art museums, historical 00:00:26.000 --> 00:00:28.000 costumes, world events. 00:00:29.000 --> 00:00:32.001 Today, these are the sources from which comes inspiration 00:00:32.001 --> 00:00:34.000 for the fashion designer. 00:00:35.001 --> 00:00:41.001 Johnny, be careful, you'll tear my pattern. How did you get in here anyway? 00:00:42.000 --> 00:00:46.000 Just open the door. Look, I've got some new records. Let's try them. 00:00:46.000 --> 00:00:49.000 But first I have to decide on the material for my new dress. 00:00:49.001 --> 00:00:53.001 Ah, just like a girl. Always thinking about new clothes. 00:00:53.001 --> 00:00:57.000 Well, you don't have to have a new dress. You always look good. 00:00:57.001 --> 00:01:00.001 Know-how look. What do you mean that know-how look? 00:01:01.000 --> 00:01:07.001 Well, it's what we fellas like a girl to have. And you have it, plus, it's sort 00:01:07.001 --> 00:01:11.000 of like, oh, look out of the window there, quick. 00:01:14.000 --> 00:01:17.001 Now there's just the opposite of what I mean by the know-how look. 00:01:19.000 --> 00:01:22.000 Once, I looked like that myself. 00:01:23.001 --> 00:01:30.001 Granny's shoes, my slip showing, a sweater big enough of Babe Ruth, and all those 00:01:30.001 --> 00:01:36.000 crazy gadgets. And the way I walked, scuffing along the pavement, head 00:01:36.000 --> 00:01:38.000 down, bleeding with my chin. 00:01:39.000 --> 00:01:43.001 My skin was horrible, too. Not enough milk and green vegetables. 00:01:44.000 --> 00:01:46.000 Not enough outdoor exercise, either. 00:01:47.001 --> 00:01:49.001 I'm glad I took the Home Economics course. 00:01:50.001 --> 00:01:53.000 We learned so much more than just how to make clothes. 00:01:54.000 --> 00:01:59.001 Good grooming, how to take care of our skin and hair, how to carry ourselves so 00:01:59.001 --> 00:02:01.001 our clothes look really smart on us. 00:02:02.000 --> 00:02:05.001 All those things that make Johnny say I have the know-how look. 00:02:06.001 --> 00:02:10.000 See what I mean? Now take you. Your figure's cute. 00:02:10.000 --> 00:02:13.000 My figure? That's all done with the book. 00:02:14.001 --> 00:02:17.000 You mean your grandmother made you walk with a book on your 00:02:17.000 --> 00:02:18.001 head to make you stand up straight? 00:02:19.000 --> 00:02:22.001 Maybe I'd been better if she had. Look, here's me. 00:02:23.000 --> 00:02:27.000 Oh, no. You don't look that way. Here, give me the pencil. 00:02:28.001 --> 00:02:29.001 You look like this. 00:02:30.000 --> 00:02:33.000 An illusion, Johnny. Done with this book. See? 00:02:34.000 --> 00:02:37.001 Area B looks larger than Area A, but they're the same size. 00:02:38.000 --> 00:02:44.001 To add pounds, use shoulder accents, broad contrasting belts, full sleeves. 00:02:45.001 --> 00:02:46.001 Do you understand that? 00:02:47.001 --> 00:02:51.001 Oh, sure. As a future architect, I use those same principles myself. 00:02:52.001 --> 00:02:55.001 Yeah, I see how girls could use them to change their figures. 00:02:57.001 --> 00:03:00.000 Which of these colors would you like for my new dress? 00:03:01.000 --> 00:03:06.001 Oh. But how about light blue? I like blue. 00:03:07.000 --> 00:03:11.000 Well, let's see what my book says. Here I am. 00:03:12.000 --> 00:03:16.000 My eyes are hazel, not pure blue, but it works out the same way. 00:03:17.000 --> 00:03:21.001 What is your type? What colors make you your most exciting and attractive self? 00:03:22.001 --> 00:03:24.001 Experiment with actual fabrics. 00:03:25.001 --> 00:03:27.000 You're right after all. Make it red. 00:03:27.001 --> 00:03:31.001 That's what I decided. Everybody can wear some shade of red. 00:03:33.000 --> 00:03:35.000 Do you make all your own clothes? 00:03:36.000 --> 00:03:38.000 Sure. Lots of us girls do. 00:03:39.000 --> 00:03:41.000 But your clothes look so professional. 00:03:42.000 --> 00:03:44.001 Johnny, don't you know that the most professional looking 00:03:44.001 --> 00:03:46.001 clothes are those made by hand? 00:03:47.000 --> 00:03:51.001 Individually. You don't think that people like little movie stars buy 00:03:51.001 --> 00:03:53.000 their clothes off a rack, do you? 00:03:53.001 --> 00:03:57.000 Well, no, but, gee, the people that make their clothes are 00:03:57.000 --> 00:03:59.001 professionals. You're just a high school girl. 00:04:00.001 --> 00:04:03.001 Gee, maybe you ought to be a designer yourself. 00:04:03.001 --> 00:04:08.001 Well, silly, I am a designer for myself. We learn that in our home 00:04:08.001 --> 00:04:10.000 economics classes too. 00:04:10.001 --> 00:04:13.001 Besides how to fit and sew like a professional. 00:04:14.001 --> 00:04:17.000 You sound as if dressmaking is an easy thing. 00:04:17.001 --> 00:04:23.000 It is. I just let my pattern tell me what to do, and it comes out all right. 00:04:24.000 --> 00:04:26.001 That's right, Betty. Let the pattern tell you. 00:04:33.000 --> 00:04:36.001 Yes, we're your pattern. Tissue paper stuff. 00:04:37.001 --> 00:04:42.000 But in this vassal frame, there is enough of glamour, charm, enchantment, and 00:04:42.000 --> 00:04:44.001 allure to set young hearts afire. 00:04:45.000 --> 00:04:49.000 And we can cure that curve or barge you'd like to lose if you 00:04:49.000 --> 00:04:50.001 think carefully before you choose. 00:04:51.000 --> 00:04:54.000 You sound like a magician. Where do you come from? 00:04:54.000 --> 00:04:57.001 This is our birthplace, where your pattern clothes... 00:04:57.001 --> 00:05:02.000 Here, ideas from around the world come pouring in, whirling their way into the 00:05:02.000 --> 00:05:07.001 designer's imagination, cleverly taking form under agile pencils, emerging as 00:05:07.001 --> 00:05:09.000 the clothes you like best. 00:05:10.000 --> 00:05:14.001 To be sure you can make them with the utmost simplicity, each design is actually 00:05:14.001 --> 00:05:17.000 made up in muslin before your pattern is cut. 00:05:17.001 --> 00:05:19.001 Thus, pre-tested for you. 00:05:20.000 --> 00:05:24.001 But it is your responsibility to choose the style best for you and 00:05:24.001 --> 00:05:26.000 the right fabric for that style. 00:05:26.001 --> 00:05:30.000 You want the best quality you can get for what you can spend. 00:05:31.000 --> 00:05:34.001 And it should be appropriate, depending on the season or climate. 00:05:35.000 --> 00:05:39.000 A basic dress like this is right in cotton, wool, or rayon. 00:05:40.000 --> 00:05:41.000 How much fabric do you buy? 00:05:42.000 --> 00:05:43.000 How much to get? 00:05:43.001 --> 00:05:47.000 Alas, the lack. To answer that, I have to turn my back. 00:05:47.001 --> 00:05:50.000 Mark at the top the size that's you. 00:05:50.001 --> 00:05:53.000 Now down the left, you must pursue the width of goods. 00:05:54.000 --> 00:05:55.001 Then twist the pair two lines you draw. 00:05:56.000 --> 00:05:59.000 And right there, where the two lines meet, your pen retards. 00:05:59.001 --> 00:06:01.000 So there it is, you find the yard. 00:06:02.000 --> 00:06:03.001 Clever. Does it always work out right? 00:06:04.001 --> 00:06:08.000 Oh yes. The pattern maker figures that very carefully. 00:06:09.000 --> 00:06:13.000 The pieces of the pattern in the various figure sizes are arranged on tables 00:06:13.000 --> 00:06:17.000 marked lengthwise in fractions of yards, and crosswise in the 00:06:17.000 --> 00:06:19.000 standard widths of materials. 00:06:20.000 --> 00:06:23.000 Different arrangements are tried to find the one using the least material. 00:06:24.000 --> 00:06:26.001 A drawing of this arrangement is included in the 00:06:26.001 --> 00:06:28.000 instruction sheet of your pattern. 00:06:29.001 --> 00:06:34.000 Yes, I see how that diagram makes cutting both easy and economical, but pattern, 00:06:34.001 --> 00:06:36.001 the picture showed two ways to make you. 00:06:37.000 --> 00:06:38.001 How does a girl know what pieces to use? 00:06:39.001 --> 00:06:43.001 That's easy. On each pattern piece is printed both its name 00:06:43.001 --> 00:06:45.000 and the style to which it belongs. 00:06:46.001 --> 00:06:50.001 Dressmaking starts by pinning the pattern together so it can be tried 00:06:50.001 --> 00:06:52.000 on to see if adjustment is needed. 00:06:53.000 --> 00:06:54.001 Well, what are you doing there? 00:06:55.001 --> 00:06:58.000 Betty needs a full-length mirror for her pattern try-on. 00:06:59.000 --> 00:07:01.001 There isn't one in her living room, so we gave her one. 00:07:02.001 --> 00:07:04.000 What happens if the pattern doesn't fit? 00:07:05.000 --> 00:07:09.000 It will. She checked her measurements and got the correct pattern size. 00:07:10.000 --> 00:07:12.000 She also got correct sewing equipment. 00:07:12.001 --> 00:07:18.001 Nine-inch shears, good quality pins and needles, plenty of thread, 00:07:20.000 --> 00:07:24.000 a slide fastener, and a 60-inch tape measure. 00:07:26.000 --> 00:07:31.001 Right here is where you use that cutting diagram you saw being made. 00:07:32.000 --> 00:07:35.000 When you lay the pattern on the material for cutting. 00:07:37.000 --> 00:07:39.001 Whoops, that's a piece that slipped. 00:07:40.001 --> 00:07:43.001 Don't worry. See that line mark straight of fabric? 00:07:45.000 --> 00:07:48.001 You measure from the fabric edge to the top and bottom of that line. 00:07:49.000 --> 00:07:51.001 When the two measurements agree, the piece is straight. 00:07:55.001 --> 00:08:00.000 In a printed pattern, pins should be put in in the direction of the cutting 00:08:00.000 --> 00:08:02.001 line, not across it. 00:08:03.000 --> 00:08:05.001 And just enough pins to hold the pattern in place. 00:08:06.001 --> 00:08:08.001 Cutting line? What's that? 00:08:09.001 --> 00:08:11.000 The heavy line around each piece. 00:08:12.001 --> 00:08:14.000 Do you cut inside that line? 00:08:14.001 --> 00:08:16.000 No, no, no. 00:08:16.001 --> 00:08:21.001 You cut exactly on the line with long, firm slashes. 00:08:23.001 --> 00:08:27.001 Betty's pattern has V-shaped marks showing what seams are to be joined. 00:08:28.001 --> 00:08:32.001 She has cut these out onto the material, or she could 00:08:32.001 --> 00:08:34.000 clip them into the seam allowance. 00:08:35.001 --> 00:08:37.000 Arrow-shaped lines indicate dots. 00:08:38.000 --> 00:08:40.001 Other important points are indicated by dots. 00:08:41.001 --> 00:08:46.001 All of these Betty marks with tailor's tacks, taking a double 00:08:46.001 --> 00:08:48.001 stitch through pattern and material. 00:08:49.000 --> 00:08:54.001 She clips the top loops, lifts the pattern off the material, 00:08:58.001 --> 00:09:05.001 and clips the thread between the fabric layers. 00:09:06.001 --> 00:09:11.000 The fabric now separates easily with both pieces clearly marked. 00:09:12.001 --> 00:09:16.001 She runs basting thread down the center of her blouse and skirt. 00:09:17.001 --> 00:09:21.000 Thus, when she fits her dress, she'll know whether the center is hang straight. 00:09:23.000 --> 00:09:24.000 What is she stitching? 00:09:25.000 --> 00:09:29.001 She's making stay stitches along curved edges so they won't pull out of shape. 00:09:30.001 --> 00:09:34.001 These preliminaries are important. It pays to be very careful about them. 00:09:35.001 --> 00:09:39.001 Now she baste her darts from the point to the wide end. 00:09:41.000 --> 00:09:42.001 How does a girl know where to begin? 00:09:43.001 --> 00:09:47.000 She just follows her instruction sheet, step by step. 00:09:48.001 --> 00:09:53.001 First she matches the notches previously cut and pins the pieces together. 00:09:56.001 --> 00:09:57.001 What's that thing? 00:09:58.001 --> 00:10:03.001 The seam line printed on the pattern pieces shows how deep to take each seam. 00:10:04.000 --> 00:10:08.001 To keep the basting even, you use a gauge or a tape measure. 00:10:09.001 --> 00:10:11.000 Even seams mean better fit. 00:10:12.001 --> 00:10:14.000 She's ready to baste in the sleeves. 00:10:15.001 --> 00:10:18.001 Putting in sleeves is simple if you follow the pattern's instructions. 00:10:19.001 --> 00:10:24.000 Using a long stitch on the machine, Betty has already put in two rows of gathers 00:10:24.000 --> 00:10:28.001 between the notches, one slightly inside the seam line and one 00:10:28.001 --> 00:10:30.000 between the seam line and the edge. 00:10:30.001 --> 00:10:36.001 With the basted dress wrong side out and the basted sleeve right side out, the 00:10:36.001 --> 00:10:38.001 sleeve is set in the armhole. 00:10:40.000 --> 00:10:41.000 Single notches at the front. 00:10:49.000 --> 00:10:51.000 Matching the double notches at the back. 00:10:54.000 --> 00:10:58.001 Matching the underarm seams and with sleeve top at shoulder top. 00:11:07.001 --> 00:11:10.000 Pin, draw up gathers to fit. 00:11:15.000 --> 00:11:16.001 Fasten the gathering thread. 00:11:21.001 --> 00:11:22.000 And this. 00:11:23.000 --> 00:11:24.001 Simple, isn't it? 00:11:25.000 --> 00:11:29.000 It doesn't sound hard, but I want to see how the dress looks on Betty. 00:11:30.000 --> 00:11:31.000 So does Betty. 00:11:31.001 --> 00:11:34.001 But right here she makes any fitting adjustments that may be needed. 00:11:37.000 --> 00:11:40.000 Maybe I shouldn't criticize, but aren't the shoulders a bit droopy? 00:11:41.001 --> 00:11:43.000 She's forgotten her shoulder pads. 00:11:44.001 --> 00:11:47.001 Shoulder pads must be pinned in place for all fittings. 00:11:49.001 --> 00:11:53.000 Those darts need to be taken in. 00:11:54.000 --> 00:11:55.001 That's hard to do by yourself. 00:11:56.001 --> 00:11:57.000 Let's help her. 00:11:58.001 --> 00:12:02.000 After all, a good pattern is one of a girl's best friends. 00:12:03.000 --> 00:12:05.000 So we have a right to be there. 00:12:06.000 --> 00:12:07.000 This will fix it. 00:12:07.001 --> 00:12:11.001 And after she takes the dress apart and rebates those darts, she can stitch. 00:12:13.001 --> 00:12:16.000 Must a girl tie herself up in knots to stitch? 00:12:17.000 --> 00:12:18.001 Betty, straighten up. 00:12:19.000 --> 00:12:21.000 Remember, correct posture at the machine. 00:12:22.000 --> 00:12:23.000 What is she stitching? 00:12:24.000 --> 00:12:28.001 A dart, starting a wide end and tapering off to nothing at the point. 00:12:29.001 --> 00:12:32.000 Watch how carefully she fastens the threads. 00:12:33.001 --> 00:12:35.000 She's a regular boy, scout with that knot. 00:12:36.000 --> 00:12:38.000 I suppose the basting's come out now? 00:12:39.000 --> 00:12:42.000 Yes, but she clips them before pulling them out. 00:12:45.001 --> 00:12:47.001 Is she through with her stitching? 00:12:49.000 --> 00:12:49.001 She's pressing. 00:12:50.001 --> 00:12:52.001 Only the darts she just stitched. 00:12:53.000 --> 00:12:55.001 Press as you go is a rule of good sewing. 00:12:56.001 --> 00:12:58.001 It helps achieve that professional look. 00:12:59.001 --> 00:13:02.001 See? She has pressed the dart toward the center of the garment. 00:13:04.001 --> 00:13:06.001 There. She's finishing her stitching. 00:13:07.001 --> 00:13:11.000 The next step is to hang the hem, and it takes two for that. 00:13:11.001 --> 00:13:12.001 We must help her again. 00:13:14.000 --> 00:13:15.001 How many inches from the floor, Betty? 00:13:16.001 --> 00:13:17.001 I know that. 00:13:18.000 --> 00:13:21.001 I read in the paper yesterday that skirts are 13 inches from the floor. 00:13:22.000 --> 00:13:26.000 My home economics teacher says to make skirts the most becoming length. 00:13:27.000 --> 00:13:28.000 Your teacher is right. 00:13:29.000 --> 00:13:32.000 Naturally, you don't want your skirt so much shorter or longer than the 00:13:32.000 --> 00:13:33.001 average that you'll be conspicuous. 00:13:34.001 --> 00:13:37.000 But an inch or so one way or the other won't matter. 00:13:39.001 --> 00:13:41.000 There. That's done. 00:13:45.000 --> 00:13:48.001 Now to put in the hem, and easy does it. 00:13:49.001 --> 00:13:52.000 Hemming stitches must not be pulled tight. 00:13:53.000 --> 00:13:56.001 And tack in the shoulder pads or put them in with snap fasteners. 00:13:57.001 --> 00:13:59.001 Is that all there is to making a dress? 00:14:00.001 --> 00:14:02.001 Except for a final once over with the iron. 00:14:03.000 --> 00:14:07.000 And that's easy, because she's pressed each seam as she stitched it. 00:14:09.001 --> 00:14:12.001 Do you like it, Johnny? 00:14:13.000 --> 00:14:14.001 I'll say I do. 00:14:16.000 --> 00:14:18.000 Want to see some quick change magic? 00:14:21.000 --> 00:14:23.000 Well, there's a brand new dress. 00:14:24.000 --> 00:14:26.000 Now, of course, nobody could make it in just a few 00:14:26.000 --> 00:14:27.001 minutes, as Betty seems to have done. 00:14:28.000 --> 00:14:31.000 But it could be made in one weekend by anyone who 00:14:31.000 --> 00:14:33.000 knows the fundamentals of sewing. 00:14:33.001 --> 00:14:35.001 Try it yourself, and you'll see. 00:14:36.001 --> 00:14:38.001 Quite a fashion show, aren't I? 00:14:39.000 --> 00:14:40.001 Betty, I've got it. 00:14:40.001 --> 00:14:44.001 Why don't you and the other girls put on a fashion show to get money for new 00:14:44.001 --> 00:14:46.000 equipment for the basketball team? 00:14:46.001 --> 00:14:49.001 Wonderful, Johnny. The girls will be crazy about it. 00:14:50.000 --> 00:14:54.000 I'm going to call up my home economics teacher right now and see if she'll help. 00:14:56.001 --> 00:15:03.001 Your patent catalog is a book of magic, 00:15:03.001 --> 00:15:07.001 for it transforms all who use it into creative artists. 00:15:07.001 --> 00:15:12.001 Yes, just as the portrait artist uses the paints and brushes to express his 00:15:12.001 --> 00:15:18.001 impression of a personality, so you can use fabrics and lines and colors to 00:15:18.001 --> 00:15:20.000 express your own personality. 00:15:23.000 --> 00:15:29.000 Hello, everyone. Thanks for coming to our little fashion show. 00:15:29.001 --> 00:15:34.001 You'll be glad to know that the basketball team is $112 richer because you came. 00:15:35.000 --> 00:15:39.001 Now, don't expect anything grand. These clothes are just what we've made in our 00:15:39.001 --> 00:15:41.001 clothing class this past semester. 00:15:42.000 --> 00:15:43.001 I hope you'll like them. 00:15:44.001 --> 00:15:51.000 Wouldn't you like 00:15:51.000 --> 00:15:53.000 to look this cool on a summer day? 00:15:54.000 --> 00:15:58.000 White does wonders for your suntan and takes any color accessories. 00:15:58.001 --> 00:16:02.001 This basic dress goes smartly to sports events, to school, 00:16:03.000 --> 00:16:04.001 or to the movies with a boyfriend. 00:16:05.000 --> 00:16:08.001 A bright colored boxy jacket takes care of cool evenings. 00:16:12.000 --> 00:16:18.000 Now, here's a grand idea. Plan a wardrobe that makes two 00:16:18.000 --> 00:16:19.001 outfits do the work of several. 00:16:20.000 --> 00:16:25.000 For instance, the three button jacket of this green woe suit can be combined with 00:16:25.000 --> 00:16:28.000 the other costumes plaid skirt to make a third ensemble. 00:16:29.000 --> 00:16:34.000 Or you can team up the green turtleneck blouse with the green suit skirt and you 00:16:34.000 --> 00:16:35.001 have a fourth smart outfit. 00:16:46.001 --> 00:16:50.001 Screwmates, the corduroy jumper and the gabardine sack dress, 00:16:51.000 --> 00:16:52.001 both with a new angle. 00:16:53.001 --> 00:16:58.001 The jumper has a swishy circular back contrasting with a prim square bodice. 00:17:00.001 --> 00:17:05.000 And there's a clipper trick in the sack dress, a belted in shoulder 00:17:05.000 --> 00:17:06.001 scarf ending in a pocket. 00:17:11.000 --> 00:17:16.000 Sailor beware. Here's the new midi dress. A long torso top 00:17:16.000 --> 00:17:17.001 over a box pleated skirt. 00:17:18.001 --> 00:17:23.000 Matt, mix your colors. Make sleeves long or short. 00:17:24.000 --> 00:17:26.000 Both of these dresses are of wool jersey. 00:17:28.000 --> 00:17:32.000 Betty tells me that blouses and skirts raid A plus with school girls. 00:17:33.000 --> 00:17:36.001 Here's a combination in jersey and striped wool, good for fall or spring. 00:17:37.001 --> 00:17:41.000 The deep arm hole is not only smart, it's comfortable too. 00:17:41.001 --> 00:17:45.001 A wide belt gives the new look of small waistline and rounded hips. 00:17:48.000 --> 00:17:51.001 Striped cotton shines at the beach, the pool, or even in the garden. 00:17:52.000 --> 00:17:56.001 This dirndl skirt wraps around and buttons. When you want to complete your 00:17:56.001 --> 00:17:58.000 suntan, take it off. 00:17:59.000 --> 00:18:01.000 Throw it over your shoulders too, like a shawl 00:18:01.000 --> 00:18:02.001 when you've had enough sun on your back. 00:18:04.000 --> 00:18:09.000 Can't you see this outfit pedaling along on a bicycle, going to a picnic, looking 00:18:09.000 --> 00:18:12.000 very gay in fact at any of summer's fun spots. 00:18:15.000 --> 00:18:21.000 It's new fashion to look old fashioned. Candy pink plaid taffeta rustles its 00:18:21.000 --> 00:18:23.001 quaint bustle and flirts a lace dust ruffle. 00:18:25.001 --> 00:18:30.001 And so Betty's fashion show ends. But everywhere sewing machines are humming, 00:18:31.000 --> 00:18:34.001 preparing for the fashion shows girls put on every day. 00:18:35.000 --> 00:18:37.001 When they step out in the clothes they've made for 00:18:37.001 --> 00:18:40.001 themselves. Happy sewing to you all. 00:18:42.000 --> 00:18:43.001 Thank you.